應用草木染工藝於臺灣客家文化符碼袋包設計創作研究

Abstract

臺灣是充滿多元文化之國家，在這片土地上包容著多樣的族群。客家為臺灣第二 大族群，然而仍有許多民眾並不了解其族群之文化與特質，本研究經由文獻探討與田 野調查了解臺灣客家文化，從中得知客家族群擁有許多具象與非具象之文化意象。另 過往天然染色方式雖已被價格低廉且可快速製成之工業染色取代，所幸近年來因環保 意識抬頭，天然染色逐漸受到重視。本研究透過專家訪談與 3 位草木染專家討論染色 方式與建議，並提出將客家文化融入草木染之想法。首先將客家文化結合符號學之理 論進行歸納統整後與草木染專家討論，得出多數具象之客家文化意象適合以「型糊染」、 「刷染」及「拔染」進行染製，三種染色技法皆為利用鏤空型版進行染色之方式，並 且皆適於「冷染」狀態下執行。其流程為先繪製適合用於雕刻之圖像，並利用防水素 材進行雕刻作為型版。本研究利用「藍染」、「柿染」及「薯榔染」三種可應用於冷 染之植物執行染製作業並設計袋包版型，將染製完成之布料製作成具有客家文化意象 之獨特袋包。最後，研究者利用問卷調查的方式進行統計分析，得知受訪者對於客家 文化意象及草木染工藝之基本認知程度多為不了解或是僅有基本認識，並了解受訪者 對於融合客家文化之各款袋包喜好程度;以及不同年齡向度之受訪者對於本創作研究 之草木染色系多為偏好藍色系，棕色系則佔少數。Taiwan is a country full of diverse cultures and embraces various ethnic groups. Hakka is the second largest ethnic group in Taiwan, yet many people are not familiar with its culture and characteristics. Through literature review and field research, this study aims to understand the Hakka culture in Taiwan, including its tangible and intangible cultural images. Although natural dyeing methods have been replaced by low-priced and fast industrial dyeing in the past, natural dyeing has gradually gained attention in recent years due to rising environmental awareness. This study discusses dyeing methods and suggestions with three experts in natural dyeing and proposes the integration of Hakka culture into plant dyeing.First, Hakka culture was integrated with semiotics theory to summarize and organize tangible cultural images, which were discussed with natural dyeing experts. Three methods were found suitable for the majority of tangible cultural images and were executed using a hollow template dyeing technique in a cold dyeing process. The process involved drawing images suitable for carving and using waterproof materials for engraving. The study utilized three plants for dyeing and designed templates for producing unique bags with Hakka cultural images. Finally, through a questionnaire survey, the researchers conducted statistical analysis and found that the respondents' basic knowledge of Hakka cultural imageries and natural dyeing techniques was mostly limited or only at a basic level. Additionally, the researchers also examined the respondents' preferences for the bags integrating Hakka culture and the natural dyeing techniques. In terms of different age groups, most respondents showed a preference for the blue color series in this creative research, while the brown color series accounted for a minority.