裝飾藝術風格時尚插畫之女性姿態應用於臺灣水果意象創作

Abstract

1920 年代，人們擺脫第一次世界戰爭的悲苦，重新拾起機械時代所帶給的歡樂生活。1925年在巴黎舉行的「現代工業裝飾藝術國際博覽會」正式開啟裝飾藝術風格（Art Deco）。裝飾藝術風格時尚插畫的女性姿態，具有纖細修長的比例和高貴優雅的儀態，研究者希望透過研究將優雅女性姿態結合臺灣水果意象進行創作。臺灣得天獨厚的氣候環境和培育栽種技術進步，一年四季都擁有各式各樣種類繁多的水果可以享用，而水果青春甜美的形象與女性特質十分契合，因此研究者希望結合兩者進行創作，使創作具臺灣意象與裝飾藝術風格優雅的氛圍。 裝飾藝術風格是在西元1910-1930年流行於歐美的設計風格，透過學習歷史裝飾經驗、吸收異國文化和融合新時代科技，創作出奢華時髦的風格，起初在歐美流行後逐漸影響到國際成為全球性的影響，甚至日本總督府以此風格於1935年在臺灣舉辦始政四十周年紀念臺灣博覽會，影響臺灣的設計美學與現代化發展。裝飾藝術風格圍繞著女性作為創作主題，與當時的女性意識抬頭有關，而女性身材、服飾、化妝和活動的改變，皆被當時的時尚插畫家所描繪紀錄。1920年代，印刷技刷的大幅改進，書籍、雜誌和插圖的出版物，得到前所未有的繁榮景象。大量印刷流傳的時尚服飾雜誌中所刊載的時尚插畫，扮演著引領時尚潮流的重要角色，許多時尚插畫家紛紛嶄露頭角，開啟了時尚插畫黃金時代。 本研究創作使用KJ歸島法篩選出經典女性姿態，同時將所經典女性姿態以真人模擬攝影進行比對分析，將分析結果作為創作細節參考，並以臺灣時令盛產水果，如：一月草莓、二月金棗、三月梅子、四月桑葚、五月荔枝、六月西瓜、七月金煌芒果、八月水梨、九月百香果、十月柚子、十一月柳丁、十二月小番茄等時令水果，和1910-1930年代臺灣女性服飾等資料，適宜規劃進行插畫創作，希冀可作為日後設計師或相關視覺運用的設計參考。 In 1920’s, People finally ditched their mournful lives, and picked up their happy lives brought by the Machine Age. Art Deco was formally introduced in International Exposition of Modern Industrial and Decorative Arts held in Paris, 1925. This research hopes to combine the lean and tall elegant female postures in Art Deco fashion illustrations and Taiwanese seasonal fruits produced by the favorable weather and advanced technology. The fresh and sweet images of fruits match well the female figures; therefore, this research hopes to combine these two elements to create illustrations that present an image of Taiwan in the Art Deco style. Based on classic, technological and exotic elements, the sumptuous and fashion style of Art Deco was popular among design styles of Europe and the United States in 1910-1930. First in Europe and the United States, then it gradually influenced the world widely. This style was even applied by Governor–General of Taiwan to arrange its 40th colonizing anniversary -- The Taiwan Exposition in Taiwan in 1935, which impacted designs and modernization there. The fact that Art Deco surrounded female was related to the rising consciousness of female. There were changes in hairstyles, dress, make-up, and entertainment, all of which were captured by fashion illustrations. In 1920’s, because of advances in printing technology, books, magazines and illustrative publications flourished to their apex. The fashion illustrations in the widespread fashion magazines played an important role in guiding the trend. Several fashion illustrators shined. The golden age of fashion illustration had begun.Through the KJ method, this research selects classic female figures and analyzes the characteristics of classic female figures through comparison photographs of real models in the same poses together. The analysis results of female dress in 1910-1930 and the Taiwanese seasonal fruits including strawberries in January, oval kumquats in February, plums in March, mulberries in April, litchis in May, watermelons in June, mangos in July, Asian pears in August, passion fruit in September, pomelos in October, oranges in November, and cherry tomatoes in December are hoped to provide a reference for further visual designs.